|
Fear - Your dog might be barking in response to something he is afraid of, such as loud noises, thunderstorms, firecrackers or construction equipment. These types of sounds can cause stress and fear, and even long-term phobias. Identify what is causing the fear and desensitize him to it. You may need professional help in the desensitization process. Keep your dog inside in a crate or let him "hide out" in his favorite place, and try masking the noise with "white noise" (from an air conditioner or loud fan), or with other familiar sounds, such as the radio or television. Do not stroke, pet, hug or otherwise comfort your dog if he is afraid, even though it's a natural reaction to do so. This will praise him for his nervous behavior and he will likely be more frightened the next time a loud noise occurs.
Territorial Barking - Dogs often bark at people, other dogs, cats, or passing traffic while patrolling the house or the borders of the yard. Every dog has watchdog instincts, which he inherited from his ancestors who had to defend their food and territory from predators. Some breeds, those bred to guard, herd or retrieve, are particularly prone to territorial barking. The main targets are often delivery people because they drop things off and then leave; dogs think their barking scares these intruders off, which reinforces the behavior.
Physical need - The dog is hot, cold, hungry, thirsty, or needs to eliminate. Barking is the dog's way of asking for your attention to one of these needs.
Emotional need - The dog might be bored, anxious or excited. Barking can be a request for attention or a compulsive behavior resulting from a lack of social or mental stimulation. Increase play and exercise so your dog will be less bored and sleep more. Teach your dog to fetch a ball or Frisbee and practice with him as often as possible. Enroll in a class to build your dog's confidence and emotional control, and spend five to ten minutes practicing the commands you've learned. Mental exercise is just as important as physical exercise. If you must leave your dog for extended periods of time, consider taking him to a "doggie day care" or have a friend or neighbor walk and/or play with him.
Medical problem - Medical problems can contribute to vocalization. In some cases where barking becomes intense, repetitive, and difficult to interrupt, it may be deemed compulsive. Pets with medical, geriatric, and compulsive disorders may benefit from drug therapy along with behavioral retraining techniques.
Barking during crate training - Do not reinforce anxiety-induced barking or whining by comforting the dog or talking to him in a soothing voice. Talk to him, take him out of his crate, pet him, and play with him only after he is quiet for at least a few seconds. If you have been "giving in" to your dog by letting him out of his crate when you can't stand the barking any longer, be aware that you have strongly reinforced him to bark to be released from his crate. This behavior will get worse before it gets better, as the dog now thinks he must simply try harder to get what he wants. If you hold out, eventually the dog will give up. Wait for the barking to stop and praise him quickly before opening the crate.
Problem Solving
Time buffers - Studies have shown that most dogs are at their destructive and vocal worst 20 minutes after you leave for work (the dog is stressed that it has to spend the day alone) and 20 minutes before you come home in the evening (the dog is excitedly anticipating your homecoming). Time buffers teach the dog to settle down for the day and to remain unemotional when you first return home. Fifteen minutes before you need to leave the house in the morning, put your dog in his crate, dog run or room (wherever he is to spend the day) and ignore him. By all means, correct any barking or destructive behavior, but do not play with him or talk to him other than to correct inappropriate behaviors. When it is time for you to leave, just leave. Do not make a big deal out of it. A "good bye, have a nice day" is enough. You are trying to teach your dog to settle in for the day, and not get so emotional when you say goodbye. Then do it in reverse when you come home. Leave your dog in his day confinement. If he or she is loose in the house, do not touch, make direct eye contact, or talk to the dog for fifteen minutes before greeting him or her. Correct any barking behavior but do nothing more. This will teach your dog that even though you have come home, there is a cooling off period before he can be greeted.
Provide activities - If your dog is busy chewing, it's more unlikely that he or she will be barking at the same time. Good chewing toys are Kong toys stuffed with cheese, biscuits or peanut butter. Stuffing sterilized beef bones also works great. Put the special chew
|
|
